RAVENSWOOD Perspective on its Past and Future

For those of us who have worried about the future of Ravenswood - now enveloped within the huge Constellation wine-producing empire (along with Robert Mondavi, Simi, Franciscan, Mt. Veeder and other quality producers) -- we've been assured that our worry is misplaced. The reassuring words were from the winery's creator and winemaker, Joel Peterson, now a member of Constellation's Board of Directors and still the Winemaker for Ravenswood. Peterson stated emphatically that Ravenswood wines will continue to be made under the same winemaking philosophy he brought to his first crush, in 1974.

During a recent event held to celebrate over thirty years of winemaking by Ravenswood, Peterson offered reassurance to friends of the winery about continuity and took time to imprint of the minds of the guests what he meant by Ravenswood style of wines -- and his "no wimpy wines!!" mantra. Zinfandels spanning almost twenty years of Ravenswood production were tasted, including old and new vintages from the Teldeschi, Cooke, Dickerson, Belloni and Old Hill vineyards, along with bottles of two delightful Pickberry (meritage) bottlings from the '90s and a 2005 Early Harvest Gewurztraminer. The plan for Ravenswood includes continuing to make forward, powerful Zins in open-top, punch-down fermentations aged in French oak.

Since Peterson now sits on the Board of Directors for Constellation Brands, he seems likely to be able to protect and direct the future of Ravenswood. Bringing Ravenswood into Constellation does not affect the product, according to Peterson, but does carry advantages in regards to market distribution and financial stability, lessening concern related to maintaining a small publicly traded company operating in a business field that is cyclical.

Peterson reflected that the whole 'against the tide' business model he used to start Ravenswood was a bit 'mad' in 1974. In a country just developing a thirst for wine, the focus in the early 'seventies was on white wine (expressly Chardonnay), and the 'wiser' heads tried to persuade Joel not to pursue his "sure-to-fail" business plan. They told him that he couldn't hope to succeed by starting a winery exclusively dedicated to red wine. Furthermore, it seemed even crazier to focus on Zinfandel while maintaining a hard headed attitude against the production of market-friendly 'White Zindandel'. While Ridge Winery, which was also an anomaly, was also heavily focused on Zin, Peterson could hardly reference it as an acceptable business model - after all, "what could you expect from a winery started by mad scientists" would be the retort. Besides, Ridge argued its goal was to make classical wines, starting with its Monte Bello Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon -- and then see what it could achieve with grapes from aged vineyards, particularly California's bastard variety Zinfandel. Ravenswood, by contrast, had to gain its success while depending on cash stretched resources and the marketability of its wines. Staunchly unrelenting about White-Zin, Joel did concede the need for an quick-to-market product but settled on 'Vintners Blend' Zinfandel (from vineyards in Sonoma, Lodi and Amador) as his cash flow wine.

Luckily, Joel and his partners (who helped bottle the wine in the early days) made the whole thing work and Ravenswood is now one of the industry's great success models. Furthermore, it is not, by any stretch of the imagination, a 'boutique winery'. Ravenswood now sends over 800,000 cases annually to market (over 95% red) and over 125,000 visitors make the trek to visit the winery each year (when my partners and I were preparing the third edition of Connoisseurs' Handbook to California Wine for Alfred Knopf Press in 1984, Joel told us he envisioned Ravenwood's optimum size as 10,000 cases).

Through the tasting of these Zins at Ravenswood's "30 Year Anniversary" event, Peterson set out to prove two things. First, that this winery has earned an identity worth preserving, one that makes it essential Ravenswood remains 'Ravenswood' - and not become just another label for Constellation. Second, Joel set out to convincingly prove Ravenswood's top Zinfandels are legitimate 'Collectors Wines' and have a proven 'age-worthiness'.

All the while, Joel argued that his philosophy of winemaking has not changed from the beginning. He said that the difference since the early days of Ravenswood is that "the vineyards now seem like old friends", that he is now more patient with the fermentation process and that now he realizes that most of the problems that show up in winemaking will take care of themselves without intervention by the winemaker. He also said that the difference in the aging of Cabs versus Zin, is that old Cabernets go towards 'rose' tones and old Zins go towards 'spice'.

The conversation at lunch seems to assure that he accomplished his goals. However, after all of the words and all of the wine tasting, the most reassuring words about Ravenswood came from my wife the next evening. I had opening a bottle of the 2004 Vintners Blend with dinner and, unaware of what I had poured in her glass, said "that's a really nice Zin, whose is it?"

Retrospective Review Notes:

Apart from its commercial success, our reviews have found the flagship wines of Ravenswood a critical success from the time of the winery's early releases.

The first Ravenswood wines my former partner, Charley Olken, and I reviewed for our publication, Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine, were two 1976 Zinfandels. Immediately impressed, we declared them to be two of California's best Zins.

Our first Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel was from the 1983 crush and it earned kudos in our publication for its "depth and succulent richnesss". This was followed by the Dickerson 1984, which impressed us as "intensely fruited wine ... jammy in a blackcherryish manner ... fairly full-bodied and richly oaked ... capable of 4-6 years of improvement." And, then the 1990 from this vineyard received the highest accolades our rating system offered, three stars. Other high ratings followed.

The first Old Hill Ranch Zin we tasted was from the 1984 vintage and we described it as having "immensely fruity, deeply extracted aromas of raspberries ... broadened by toasty and somewhat vanillin notes of oak ... (this) fairly full-bodied and richly oaked (wine is) capable of 4-6 years of improvement." We later did a vertical retrospective of the Old Hill Ranch from the 1984 to the 2000 vintage and the review is available in the January 2001 issue of CGCW.

Our first chance to review a Belloni Vineyard Zin was the 1991 vintage and it also gained high praise. We wrote that it was "intense, bold, almost black ... (and that the) opulence overrides tannic roughness".

Tasting Notes of 2002 Dickerson and Belloni Zinfandels. Each is an outstanding Zinfandel and rank in our '90s range:

2002 Ravenswood Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel ($30) While the depth of fruit is evident in this wine's appealing mouthfeel, its flavor lift it into the category of being one of the better Dickersons. It carries an overlay of chocolate, mocha and cardamom spice tones over the ripe berryish tones that you would expect. In the mouth you'll appreciate the balance and be delighted by deep flavors and great length in the finish.

2002 Ravenswood Belloni Vineyard Zinfandel ($30). Comparatively, the Belloni is a relatively youthful vineyard, less than thirty years old, but was promising enough for Ravenswood to pick it up as a designated-vineyard wine in 1992. A decade later, the 2002 is pretty much a standout with a deep sense of Zinfandel fruit and length that goes on forever. While a touch sharp from alcohol, it has broad fruit flavors with some oak notes and hints of cocoa.

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Ravenswood, of course, continues to produce a full range of red varietals, all of which are well worth checking out, in addition to its Zinfandels. We'll have occasion to cover some of these other wines in later reviews from WE-C. For a review of the Vineyard Designated Ravenswood Zinfandels, see Ravenswood under our section of Reviews & Ratings.