Wine Recommendations: RAVENSWOOD Vineyard Designated 2004 ZINFANDELS
Prior to the release of this set of Zinfandels from Ravenswood we participated in a Thirty Year retrospective celebration of the accomplishments and success of the winery (see our Ravenswood article). During the event we had the chance to taste several yet-to-be-released wines, including a couple of the Vineyard Designated Zinfandels of which winemaker Joel Peterson is so proud.
As a follow-up to the event, a case of the six vineyard designated 2004 Zins showed up at our doorstep and we organized a tasting where we could compare these wines to each other and then with appropriate foods. By the end of the event each of the wines had supporters among the tasters and each wine was praised for its own set of virtues and appealing qualities. The following notes are my judgements about these well-made, enjoyable wines:
[90] RAVENSWOOD 2004 BARRICIA VINEYARD, Sonona Valley ($30)(1,025 cases)(14.6% alc). This wine is from an old, low-production vineyard located in a part of the Sonoma Valley known locally as the 'banana belt', due to the benevolent warmth of its microclimate. Some of the vines date back to the late 1880s. The wine is 75% Zin and 25% Petite Sirah and was aged 20 months in French oak barrels, a third new barrels. This wine offers smoky, complex aromas and broad fruit flavors. While it does not contain high alcohol versus other Zins on the market, there is a hot, burning and briary impression on entry that is only softened by another bite of food. The Barricia is a wine that will certainly show appealing depth and complexity if given a few years of aging -- it took a couple of hours to open and show this promise during the course of the tasting and dinner.
[91] RAVENSWOOD 2004 BELLONI VINEYARD, Russian River Valley ($30)(1,475 cases)(15% alc). Joel Peterson describes the source of these grapes a lovingly-tended, old-vines vineyard in the Russian River Valley. It has a traditional 25% field blend of Petite Sirah, Alicante and Carignane. Like the other vineyard designated Zins, it was aged 20 month in French oak, 34% new. Despite its qualities, this is not a wonderful wine for inclusion in a straightforward 'tasting'. At present it is a bit to rough and coarse, but the wine immediately turns the corner when matched with food. Suddenly a deep sense of Zinfandel berry fruitiness comes to the fore and appealing fruit flavors are apparent and lengthy. Some interesting spice and creamy oak tones surface from its deep flavors. The wine has a lengthy finish and is a very satisfying Zinfandel.
[95] RAVENSWOOD 2004 BIG RIVER VINEYARD, Alexander Valley ($30)(1,525 cases)(14.8% alc). A vineyard planted in the Alexander Valley during the early 1900s and exceedingly well-taken care of during its long life. 100% Zinfandel and aged 20 months in French oak, 35% new. We are both impressed and seduced by the forwardness and power of the varietal fruit in this wine. Raspberry and cherry aromas are prominent and this one has the fullest body of any of this set of vineyard-designated 2004 Zins We'll bet on it holding its own in any tasting of Zinfandels.
[96] RAVENSWOOD 2004 DICKERSON VINEYARD, Napa Valley ($30)(925 cases)(14.7% alc) On par with the 2002 and the best of this lengthy line of outstanding Zinfandels, the wine's rich, deep and distinctive aromas and flavors carry the themes that have always been appealing about the Dickersons. The Dickerson Vineyard is located on the northern edge of the Napa's Rutherford AVA and it delivers the distinctive qualities given to grapes grown on the Rutherford bench. It is ripe without ever being jammy. This one offers a solid presentation of Zinfandel fruit with all of its enjoyable berryish qualities and spice seasonings and carries enough pedigree and distinction to be allocated space in your cellar. An excellent wine to bring to a tasting of Rutherford Cabernets.
[95] RAVENSWOOD 2004 OLD HILL VINEYARD ($60)(810 cases)(14.9% alc). Sonoma's first famous Zinfandel, made in 1862 by William Hill, was grown in this vineyard. The vines are probably Sonoma's oldest Zinfandel vines. There are more than a dozen other varieties of grapes included in the 24% field blend, including Temperanillo, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. The wine was aged 20 months in French oak, 30% new. 14.9% alc. Ravenswood first produced a vineyard designated vintage Zinfandel from this source in 1983. In this one we have a wine offering complexity and some ripe fruit richness to the aromas. While clean on the palate and showing some pleasing notes of varietal fruit tones. There is a burn from alcohol that makes the wine more suitable for serving with hard cheeses and fruit than with most entrees. It is nice to have a few bottles of this wine available in your cellar.
[90] RAVENSWOOD 2004 TELDESCHI VINEYARD ($30)(2,375 cases)(14.9% alc)
One of the first vineyards sought out by winemaker Joel Peterson, who had first worked with famed Joe Swan (who, in turn, had made his most famous Zin from this vineyard). The grapes are grown in the Dry Creek Valley and the wine is 17% Petite Syrah and 5% Carignane. 14.9% alc. Joel practically had to become a member of the Teldeschi's extended family to obtain the grapes but he has proven a trustworthy producer bringing out the complex appeal. The aromas and flavors are quite distinctive verging on plum-like fruit tones with spice, oak and nuances offering a hint hazelnut.
-------------------------------------------
A variety of Ravenswood wines are available through most wine merchants and the upscale and vineyard designated offering can be ordered over the Web if not stocked by your favorite store. Constellation's on-line web address will lead you to an Internet retailer by the name of Hartwick & Grove -- from which its many brands are also available.